A solar surprise

Well, everyone says that the problem with natural dyes is that you cannot repeat colours exactly. With any dyeing process, there is scope for variation due to slight differences in quantities, moisture content etc.

With natural dye stuff there will also be variations in the amount of dye chemicals in the plant because of growing conditions, time of year, and things like that.

I know I said I was going to forget about my solar dyeing for a few weeks, but I glanced in that direction when I was passing, and noticed one of the jars was pink.

How can that be then? I have 4 jars containing flowers that were picked and processed at the same time in the same way.

The plants are a single variety, bought from a respectable supplier as plugs. They were nurtured in the kitchen, and greenhouse before being planted out.

Since the danger of frosts passed, they have been living side by side in the same beds with the same soil conditions and climate. Since I assembled them, the jars have been sitting side by side in the same place.

It will be interesting to see how this one progresses. Will it stay pink? Will the others catch up? Will the silk be anything like this colour when it is eventually washed out and dried?

I wonder if the pink jar has slightly more flowers, which has just pushed it over some boundary?

One thing is for sure. It is clearly dangerous to have fixed plans for the next stage of these scarves.

Left to right: The pink marigold jar, then one of the others which is golden, as I expected it to be.

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Solar dyeing

Where is this year going? I have been so busy with my editing work that I haven’t had as much time as I would like for getting on in the studio.

One thing I keep reading about on the net is solar dyeing. It mainly seems to go on in the US. You don’t hear much about it in East Yorkshire.

I’m just back from holiday, so if I don’t make a start now, in mid July, I can’t expect to get results from a process that takes several weeks of warmth.

What have a I got to lose? A few home grown flowers and a bit of time. If not much colour comes out, I can use it as a base for something else.

To get things going fast, I picked up some unmordanted silk and put it with some dried rhubarb leaves. Most of us know that rhubarb leaves are poisonous, but not so many know that the relevant chemical is a mordant, which helps colour stick to fibres.

In general, fibres need to move around in a dye bath, or you will get uneven colour. Solar dyeing happens in a glass jar, so movement doesn’t seem likely. In an attempt to make blotches look like an artistic pattern, I ran a few gathering threads at random places and drew them up to give a bit of underlying texture. I’m hoping for a similar effect to tie dying, but with more flexibility for it to move round the jar when I shake it.

As the leaves were dry, I put about double the weight of the scarf I was using into the jar, and topped it up with cold water. I left it in a sunny place, on gravel in case of spillages, & went away for a couple of days. People I told about my experiment it to said “You’ll be lucky in this weather.”

However, by the time I got back there was a bit of colour in the jar. It even looks the right colour for rhubarb.

Spurred on by this, I’ve dug out a few more jars for phase 2 of the experiment.

This time, I’ve mordanted four scarves with alum, and put them one to a jar with some fresh marigolds. A scarf weighs 7 or 8g, and I’ve put 20g to 30g of flowers in each one. I’m expecting a golden colour, which should be a useful background for all sorts of designs. I think my quantity of flowers is on the generous side, but I suspect the colour from this process will be paler than in the more usual boiling process.

Now I’m going to forget all about it for a few weeks.

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An experiment with flour paste

This experiment is about a very simple concept. If you cover a surface with something impenetrable, like a stencil, and paint over the top, the paint doesn’t get to the whole surface, causing a pattern to form.

In this case, the surface is a silk scarf, and the something impenetrable is flour and water paste.

Stage 1

Although this technique would work on a nice, plain white scarf, that wasn’t a very appealing idea. After preparing the fabric with a mordant, I splodged two colours of dye over the scarves, allowing them to mix where the colours touched to form shades of purple. I used a different brush for each dye, so that the colours didn’t merge too much, and there was a variety of marks.

Stage 2

After leaving the scarves to dry overnight, I mixed up some flour and water paste for the really messy part. I spread the paste on with a spatula, and made patterns using a chunky plastic comb. I worked in stages, because it is easier to mix the paste using about 125g of flour in each batch.

Stage 3

For those with patience, this is the easy bit. The paste needs to dry thoroughly to form a proper barrier. By the following morning it looked dry, but there were some places where the paste was a bit darker, so it was obviously still damp in places.

I had put the paste on when I knew I didn’t have time to work on this project for several days, in case I was tempted to move on too soon. That was a good move. By the time I was ready, the scarves had curled the pvc table cloth I was working on. Where the paste had been scraped over the edge of the scarf, it had risen away from the base as it dried.

Stage 4

The next stage is to mix up some dye in a different colour, and paint it all over the paste. The dye takes in the pattern drawn in the paste, and in the cracks formed in the paste as it dried.

I was wondering whether the dye would reach through to the fabric. I was a bit concerned that I might not have scraped all the way through the paste, so a thin layer might prevent any pattern forming. When I turned the dried scarf over, I was reassured.

Stage 5

The dried paste is removed from the fabric by flaking it off. I was surprised quite how  messy this was.

Although some came off in big chunks, a lot of powder was created, and the more persistent sections needed to be soaked off. I’m wondering whether an old fashioned mangle would speed up this part of the process.

Stage 6

The final stage of most dyeing processes is to give it all a good rinse, and hang it up to dry.

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Experiments with cyanotype

The idea of cyanotype is very simple.

First soak the fabric in light sensitive chemicals, then dry it in a dark place. If you arrange shapes on the resulting fabric and expose it to daylight, the chemicals react and darken the fabric to a slate grey. When you rinse it out, the chemicals come out of the parts that have been covered, leaving a white shape, while the parts of the have fabric that have  been exposed to the light turn a lovely blue.

What could possibly go wrong?

Well, it turns out that there are two key things:

  1. It is important to apply the solutions evenly. Sometimes I managed a lovely mottled effect. Sometimes there were unpleasant white gashes in the pattern.
  2. The angle of the light is important. Where the light came from above the shape, it is nice and clear. If it comes from the side, you get a blur.

I tried two theories for my first experiments:

cyanotype 1

  • First, I used paper snowflakes. I cut out thin drawing paper, as you would to decorate a window at Christmas.

This worked nicely, but I didn’t get enough of the solution on the fabric to get enough colour developing. The pattern came out nicely in some parts, but in other places the blue was just too pale to make the pattern stand out. The big thing that stopped this experimenty from being useable was a horrible tide mark at one end. Bother.

  • The other idea was to use wooden shapes from a stationery shop.

cyanotype 2The simpler shapes of leaves worked best. Unfortunately, on this piece of fabric I had not covered the whole of the fabric, and you could see the gaps between the brush strokes.

The shapes were clear and well defined, but the overall fabric was not consistent enough to be useable.

The other shape I tried was a reindeer. I need to try this again to work out the nature of the problem. cyanotype 3Either the shape is too intricate, or the angle of the light was wrong. I did these experiments in winter, so I used a UV bulb in a lamp. Some of the shapes are unrecognisable fuzzy blobs, but some are quite nice.

This is an idea that has some scope, but it needs some refinement.

Stay tuned for the next exciting episode, as they say.

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Did I tell you I’ve got some woad plants?

img_5297.jpgI don’t know if you have ever tried, but buying woad plants is quite difficult. Seeds are quite easy to come by, but I don’t have fantastic conditions for seeds and seedlings. One of the reasons I am starting a dye garden is that I can’t cope with vegetables.

I live in an old windmill, so you won’t be surprised to know that it is quite windy here. My theory is that I need to grow varieties that are marked weather resistant, particularly if they are also marked wind resistant. At a minimum, I go for dwarf. The less you stick up, the less you get hit by the wind.

So I grew veg from seed. When they got to the hardening off stage, the “sheltered” place I found for them just wasn’t quite sheltered enough. I replaced them with plants from the local garden centre, but something ate them.

So after a couple of years of trying, I’ve decided that a vegetable patch won’t work. Before I resorted to shrubs, I started my experiments with dyeing. My research into useful dye plants that are likely to grow here yielded quite a lot that could only be grown from seed.

So I prioritised those that I couldn’t find for sale in plant form.

But then when I tried to buy woad plants, all the websites said they were sold out.

Bother.

So I was really pleased when I found these.  They have obviously had an ordeal in the post. They were beautifully packed, but it has been quite warm recently. They looked so squashed and tired when they arrived that it just didn’t seem fair to take a picture of them.

But now, after a few days of regular watering on a warm floor, next to a nice big window, they have recovered.  I’m going to plant them out!

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Finally, it is planting time!

IMG_5294I’m quite excited.

All winter, I have been tending some seeds.

OK, so let’s be honest, that gives a rather broad impression. I planted some seeds in the autumn:

  • Some had to go in situ. Nothing seems to have happen there.
  • The rest had to go in seed trays, in a frost free environment. Some did nothing at all. One packet produced one plant.

Now the rest are ready to be re-potted or planted out. And because I don’t have enough flower pots of a suitable size, out they are going.

IMG_5284

Fortunately, I now have a cold frame to harden them off. So they have not been the victim of the wind. Keep your fingers crossed that they survive the peasants, deer, and rabbits whom I suspect of eating the vegetable plants!

The one I’m most excited about is the single survivor with big leaves. He is comfrey. Apparently, William Morris  said that comfrey gives the best natural greens. So I can’t wait to try it. After all, anyone who can come up with IMG_5287“Have nothing in your home that you do not know to be beautiful or believe to be useful” must know a thing or two.

The more delicate looking plants are Dyers’ Broom.

I’ve stocked up on slug pellets, and I have my fingers crossed!!

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Welcome to my blog!

I have been interested in arts and crafts ever since I was little. I have always fancied the idea of doing some serious dyeing, but the amount of mess put me off. I thought that by the time I had covered up everything that needs protected, most of the time I had for doing the job might have gone. And then there is the clearing up.

To cut a long story short, I am now in possession of a series of sheds, with no particular purpose for them. It occurred to me that they could be the location for making all the mess I wanted. And when I need a break, I can just close the door, go back to the house, and be civilised again. The next time I feel arty, I can go out and pick up where I left off.

 

 

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